Thank you for choosing Team Aqua Pools & Spas. To keep your pool warranties intact, it is very important that you keep records of maintenance. Without records, any abuse or neglect will void your warranties. You must every six months have a professional water analysis done or have us perform a six month service, to verify proper water chemistry for warranty.
Proper pool maintenance is very simple and easy to understand. When your pool looks good, we look good. We really care about the appearance and longevity of your pool. Please feel free to call us with any questions or concerns, we are here to help. If you are not happy, tell us, if you are happy, tell a friend!
The First Month
- Get Pool Water Balanced
- Start keeping a written record of pool chemistry
- Learn how to operate your pool & test water chemistry
- Get a professional water analysis done
- Verify water hardness (If water hardness is less than 200 ppm it may cause problems will the pool interior!) If the water hardness is higher than 500 ppm you may experience calcium scaling.
- Check Pool Chemistry, keep a record (twice a week in summer)
- Brush Pool and rake for large leaves and debris
- Clean Skimmer & Pump Baskets
- Check Cleaning system
- Rain, Wind & Dust will require immediate servicing to your pool. Please check all baskets and chemical levels. Brush & rake entire pool.
Every Six Months
- Clean Cartridge Filter (directions are on the filter)
- Check Salt level. (salt water pools only)
- Check Conditioner (cyanuric acid) Maintain at 40-90 ppm. (salt pools need to be at 70-90 ppm during the summer)
- Test for Phosphates
- Professional Water Analysis
- (If Applicable) Salt will be added to your pool 30 days from start-up. Keep chlorine level @ approximately 1.5-3.0. Please maintain salt level @ 2,800- 3,500 ppm. Refer to the Salt System owner’s manual for adding salt and adjusting the out put. The Cell lifetime is approximately 3 years and will need to be replaced when the unit fails to produce sanitizer. The cell may need to be cleaned periodically (every month or every six months depending on water hardness & pH levels).
- (Above 100 degrees) you may need to extend filtration time up to 12 hours a night in order for the unit to keep up.
- You may shorten the pool filtration to 6 hours per day, and put the system on the lowest setting. If the chlorine level is high turn the system off until level drops (sometime up to a month). The unit will automatically shut off when temperature reaches 58 degrees. This is a safety precaution to avoid over sanitation and damage to the cell plating. Algae and bacteria can not grow at this temperature, so only trace amounts of chlorine will need to be present. If you have a reading of 0, then add some liquid chlorine until temperature rises again.
Time Clock Operation
(Most people run their pool equipment between 9 pm and 9 am for energy cost savings)
Setting the Time Clock
- Pull the dial towards you and set on the proper time, release the dial and it will fall into place. (this is a 24 hour dial)
- Set the “ON” activator on the desired time to start filtration.
- Set the “OFF” activator to the desired time to stop filtration.
- Winter Time 6 Hours (Run equipment all night if a freeze is expected)
- Fall & Spring 8 Hours
- Summer 8-12 Hours (During extreme heat pool should run a couple of hours during the day)
- Rule of thumb, air temperature of 60◦ = 6 hours filtration, 80◦ = 8 hours, 100◦ = 10 hours filtration and so on………….
Make sure pool is running long enough to stay clean & sanitized; Chlorine dissipates faster in
the heat & direct sun exposure.
The brief definitions which follow will be expanded, for the most part, in the test which follows these definitions. The terms will be more meaningful as they directly apply to each subject category.
Acid/pH de-creaser – a chemical additive which is used to lower the pH (acidityalkalinity balance) of the water.
Acid/Base Demand – A test result which indicates how much acid or soda ash/pH increaser (if any) should be added to the water to provide a balanced proportion of acid to alkaline materials.
Algae – plant-like organisms which grow in water. These organisms are particularly active in growth during warm weather, warm conditions, and where the disinfectant level is too low to destroy them. Algae may be green, brown or black in color.
Alkalinity – a combination of natural minerals in the water The opposite of acidity on a measurement of pH.
Bacteria – undesirable organisms with the potential to cause disease if not controlled by disinfectant additives.
Bromine – a chemical disinfectant, similar to chlorine which is used to control bacteria and algae.
Chlorine – a chemical disinfectant which is used to control bacteria and algae.
Chlorine demand – the amount of chlorine (if any) that should be added to the water to provide proper bacteria and algae control.
Chlorine Residual – the amount of chlorine left over, after “demand” has been met.
Combined Chlorine – weak chlorine which is combined with the contaminants in the water.
Free Chlorine – active chlorine in the water with the potency to destroy contaminants.
pH – the measure of acid to alkaline proportions in the pool or spa water.
Hardness – dissolved minerals, generally Calcium and magnesium present in pool or spa water.
PPM – parts per million. Some test kit numerical readings (chlorine and total alkalinity) indicating the parts per chemical type in a million parts of water.
Scale – a visible mineral buildup on pool or spa surfaces as a result of pH being too high.
Shock Treatment – the removal by means of oxidation of those materials that have a chlorine or bromine demand.
Soda Ash – an additive which is used to raise the pH of the water.
Sodium Bicarbonate – an additive which is used to increase the Total Alkalinity or pH of the water.
Super chlorination – an extra large amount of chlorine added to the water.
Total Alkalinity – the indicator how stable the pH will be over a period of time.
Chlorine and Bromine are the effective disinfectants for use against bacteria and algae problems in your pool or spa water. These contaminants arrive in your pool or spa water. These contaminants arrive in your pool or spa in a number of easy, and become more of a problem as temperatures rise. Chlorine and bromine are available in a number of forms. Each form has its own particular application. The beast source of information on the proper disinfectant for your specific need is your pool supply store.
Chlorine demand or bromine demand refers to the quantity of chlorine and bromine consumed in the process of chlorine and bromine consumed in the process of destroying bacteria, algae and other oxidizable material in pool or spa water. The demand will change as a result of pool or spa usage, weather conditions, and by the pH of the water. For proper dosage of disinfectants you must know the water capacity of your pool or spa.
Chlorine residual or bromine residual is the term used for the amount of disinfectant in your pool or spa at the time it is testes. Chlorine residual is made up of free chlorine and combined chlorine. The following explanations may be helpful